Stirring Your Soul

High Quality Dashi

2011-03-21T07:35:00.000-07:00

Kombu (sea kelp, こんぶ), together with bonito (skipjack tuna), are the main elements for dashi (Japanese fish stock, だし), which is essential for authentic Japanese cuisine. In fact, in Japan, restaurants are even judged based on the quality of their dashi. Japanese kombu are mainly harvested in Hokkaido (see map).

Bonito is dried, fermented, and smoked into what is called katsuobushi (かつおぶし). I had used dashi in my search for making the ramen-style eggs (hanjuku tamago). Perhaps I may write about these eggs too...

Recently I managed to get my hands on a Rausu-kombu, among the top 3 grades of kombu (the others being Ma-kombu and Rishiri-kombu) at a Japanese fair, at SGD$50 for 170g. Will have to go for Rishiri-kombu (at Meidi-ya) once I finish the former.

Also from a fair, I discovered a premium grade of katsuobushi, known as Hongare-bushi. The bonito used was caught using hook & line fishing! Understand that this was air-dried for 6 months, twice as long as the usual katsuobushi. And it was shaved fresh upon purchase! It is quite amazing to see the thin slivers of Hongare-bushi, produced from the hardest type of katsuobushi. I must say that it has definitely resulted in a much deeper flavour. Would love to have my very own traditional bonito shaver (used here), and prepare it only when needed.

I use a simple recipe for dashi, though I may try some elements of this other version from a Michelin-starred restaurant.

Oh, I also use mineral water for the dashi. I had started using this for the ice in cocktails for at least 6 years. This brand is inspired by my favourite food critic.

Sincerely hope that Japan will recover soon (am confident it will, such is the tenacity of this culture). I deeply believe it to be the most refined, and among the best cuisine in the world.

Making Fuzhou Red Rice Wine

2011-02-02T04:46:00.000-08:00

This is my first attempt at making the red rice wine, based on this. Another recipe, that I may try later, depending on the outcome of the first one. The latter does not pre-mix the powdered items though...

First off, the red yeast and wine biscuit had to be purchased from medical halls from chinatown, though some in the old towns may have one or the other.

There also don't seem to be much options for the glutinous rice. All this to be developed. For the water, I selected Volvic.

The red yeast, Monascus Purpureus (红曲菌), is the key to the distinctive hue. It may also have cholesterol-lowering properties!

Wine biscuit, the starch to feed the yeast and kick-start the fermentation, seem to be from the same Malaysian supplier for most shops in Singapore. It may be the left-over residue from previous batches of rice wine-making, which is similar to the concept of 'sour mash' in bourbon-making. There is also mold in the mix, and the main ones used here may be Ragi, the strain also used in Indonesia. I would like to experiment with the Japanese strain Kōji-kin/麹菌 (Aspergillus oryzae) used for sake-making if I could get my hands on it.

This is the powdered mix of the red yeast and wine biscuit. I break up the biscuit as much as possible, and then throw it into the blender with the red yeast, and this is the result.

This is the glutinous rice soaked in Volvic water; I left it for about 5 hours.

Setup for the final phase. Boiled Volvic water is to wet hands to shape the rice.

The first ball of coated glutinous rice. Resulting art:

The bottled product:

Day 3; just checking up on progress:

Next ingredient; patience. 7 days later...

And 27 days after that... (should have be 23)

The red rice wine after the first filter:

And of course, the precious red rice residue:

Some other recipes that I may experiment with later:
Home-cooked Food
AuthoritySitesBlog

Food Recipes using this wine:
Under the Fuzhou section

Tipless Glassware Set On Tray

2009-10-05T15:34:00.001-07:00

Scot Denison

Paper-thin Vege Bowls

2009-08-25T11:42:00.000-07:00

Dutch artist Geke Wouters

Blue Beer!

2009-08-25T11:37:00.001-07:00

Okhotsk Blue by Abashiri Brewery

Provocachic Cover Story Feature in We Are World Class

2009-04-29T13:26:00.000-07:00

Provocachic's latest editorial:

Provocachic has just been published as one of the front-page news in The World Class, a global cocktail program helmed by leading figures Dale DeGroff and Chef Marco Pierre White.

Articles have been cited and debated by global opinion formers, among them cocktail historian David Wondrich on the Chanticleer Society. Hardcopy versions shall be published in mid-May in Greece, and probably also Japan, Taiwan, Thailand and Dubai.

*The images for "The Show Must Go On" and "The Green Fairy" are works by 5PF Studio.

*20:20 London & SeventhSense are the media & ad agencies behind We Are World Class.

Wine Reservoir?

2009-04-24T00:26:00.000-07:00

Glass Tank by Kyouei Design.

Amusette

2009-04-23T23:49:00.000-07:00

Edible canape spoons, by Pidy Gourmet.

a brief visual teaser of the Rojak cocktail recipe

2009-03-21T21:33:00.000-07:00

Discover the story behind the design recipe here.

"Dry Blizzard"

2009-02-11T07:46:00.000-08:00

Created by Thomas Lemaire. Designed to use dry ice, and chilled with the circulated cool vapour from the former. The double glass wall design of the champagne flutes remind me of Bodum glassware. The stem & base is constructed of aluminium. Nice imagination.

Haute Couture Bubble Bottle

2009-02-08T07:33:00.000-08:00

The Haute Couture Bubble Bottle, created by Jean Paul Gautier for Baccarat. One of five designs made for Evian.

Hibiscus infused Tequila

2009-02-03T23:05:00.000-08:00

The Rosangel, crafted from Gran Centenario tequila infused with handpicked hibiscus flower.

Royce Chocolate Stout!?

2009-01-17T08:41:00.000-08:00

Dubbed the Chocolate Brewery, the wonderful fruit of a partnership between Sapporo Brewery and Royce Chocolate. Hopefully we would be able to experience this in Singapore soon.

A Citrus Loo!

2008-12-01T23:21:00.001-08:00

Quirky! Citrus slices in the urinal?? And in a bar that specializes in the Classics - Bugsy's Bar (Prague).

Photography by Jamie Boudreau.

For the Sleek Mixologist

2008-12-01T23:05:00.000-08:00

Bar tools designed by Marcus Vagnby and Karina Menckes, at Danish firm Nuance. From left to right, a bar spoon, strainer, muddler and a zester. Why isn't there more developments in bar tool designs?

Best Foie Gras in the World!

2008-11-27T05:53:00.000-08:00

Produced by the Pateria de Sousa farm in Spain, whereby the geese are naturally fattened - NO FORCE FEEDING.

It's Raining Wine!

2008-11-20T05:07:00.000-08:00

Avant garde wine decanter by Swedish designer Matilda Sundén Ringnér.

Clap your brains off

2008-11-13T04:54:00.000-08:00

Just some visual stimulus to relax our mind. Inspired by MC Escher.

CLAP YOUR BRAINS OFF
by frankbeltran

The Secret of Scent

2008-11-13T03:43:00.000-08:00

An intro by Luca Turin, author of The Secret of Scent, a book which I have thoroughly enjoyed and highly recommend. A significant contribution towards our understanding of the human sensory system.

Tequila & Lime Chicken

2008-08-24T22:29:00.000-07:00

My attempt at a similar dish that's on the menu of Magarita's mexican restaurant (Singapore). Chicken breast sold in the supermarkets are usually halfed and spread open so each piece looks bigger, though of course thinner. A single piece is enough for this recipe, where the meat is used as the fillings for Fajita wraps. The latter is also available in the supermarkets (& Belmonte), though an oven or microwave is required at home for its preparation.

RECIPE (for every piece of chicken breast)

Ingredients:
1 piece of Chicken Breast
40ml Tequila
80ml Lime juice, freshly squeezed (recommended Tahitian)
40ml Orange juice, freshly squeezed
1/3 tbsp Chili powder
1/3 tbsp Jalapeno pepper, fresh, minced (available at Belmonte Latin Foods)
1/3 tbsp Garlic, fresh, minced (approx. 1 clove)
2/3 tsp Kosher Salt
1/3 tsp Black Pepper, freshly ground
5-8 pieces Sweet Basil leaves, fresh
8-12 stalks Oregano leaves, fresh

Method:
1) Sliced chicken into thumb-sized pieces, across the grains when possible. Leave the skin on.
2) Prepare the Jalapeno pepper & garlic, and together with the salt & pepper, rub into the meat in a deep bowl.
3) Gently crush the herbs with hands and mix with meat.
4) Add the juices and tequila to the bowl of meat.
5) Cover bowl with food wrap (cling film), and marinate in fridge at least 5-8 hours (overnight).
6) Grill meat skin side down for about 5 minutes (or till brown) over low-medium heat.
7) In another pan, reduce the marination liquid to about 1/3 of its original volume. Pour this sauce over the dish of meat.
8) Finish off with abit of salt & pepper to taste. Garnish with sprigs of oregano.

Secrets of the brain, the senses & flavours

2008-08-17T10:46:00.000-07:00

An enlightening video about synaethesia, a neurological condition whereby the sensory channels have sort of 'cross-lined' in the brain. Evident in about 1% of the population, and 8 times more common in creative professional, it offers insights into how we perceive things. Though studied since the 19th Century, it was only 'rediscovered' and re-affirmed in recent years.

It seems that most of us have a certain degree of this ability. At its core, it has given humans the ability to make metaphors, abstract associations - key to creativity and possibility the formation of language. It also highlights certain shared associations among all humans, which is also a most intriguing area to explore for the sensory design of a beverage.

2008-08-17T06:57:00.000-07:00

More of a taupok (fried beancurd) style of rojak, only other main ingredients being cuttlefish and youtiao (deep fried dough sticks). As seen in the video, the items are all painstakingly grilled over charcoal, then placed onto a plate. The shrimp paste sauce is simply poured over the dish, followed by some ground peanuts.

There are several "awarded" rojak stores that I patronise, but at the end of the day, I much prefer this style of rojak at Hong Lim hawker centre. In fact, I'd just eaten a few different rojak for 3 days in a row, and confirmed my choice!

The uncle, in he's 60s, may not smile much, but he sure puts heart into preparing he's rojak. I most enjoy the way he stretches the cuttlefish over the charcoal till somehow he 'knows' it's ready. And this stall is really easy to miss, probably due to little focus on storefront design. Oh, and he has a hawker cert in the corner which shows that he had been preparing rojak since 1978!

Highly recommended, try the 'Muji' style rojak store - no brand, simply good. Well, definitely my favourite rojak in Singapore!

Hong Lim hawker centre (behind Chinatown Point)
#02-65
Usually closes by 3pm, & close on Sundays (i think)

Finger Plates!

2008-08-14T09:46:00.000-07:00

Interesting to see this idea commercialized, though i'm not really sure of how well it'd work. Would definitely try the "FingerFood" if available here. Designed by Ken Goldman, the ceramic contraptions should bring a smile to those boring parties.

Trusty Yummy Sashimi

2008-08-10T06:38:00.000-07:00

Still the best place to have very fresh sashimi at a great price - Ichiban Boshi @ Great World City. Order at least 2 items from the Kuriya fish market at the entrance, and it would be cut & served at your table. Taking your time to choose the sashimi yourself is definitely worth it, as compared to ordering from the menu in the restaurant.

Pictured are among our favourites - Kanpachi and Akagai. The Kanpachi is Japanese Amberjack (a variety of yellowtail) that has grown to at least 4 feet. Choose the belly area for the oiliest part. Fresh ones would have a clean 'crunchy' bite and sweetness. Beware sashimi with a 'powdery'/'slime-y' surface.

The Akagai (a.k.a. red shell fish or ark shell) is like a giant cockles, just much more refined in flavour. And it has a real bouncy crunch! Though it seems huge, only part of it is suitable as sashimi, so you'd end with a considerably smaller portion. Check out the video sample of how it may be prepared.

Hidden Gem: Hokkien Mee (yes, again)

2008-08-08T09:08:00.000-07:00

Somehow this stall's hokkien mee have not been recognized by any of the culinary awards, but their's is one of the best that I've tasted.

The chef takes he's time to steam the dish during the cooking process, and the dish turns out moist & aromatic. Quite savoury, especially the chilli, though be prepared to pay for more of the latter as very little is given. Extras used to be free a few years back, but the chef cites increased food costs as a reason.

Location: Blk 40, Beo Crescent (near tiong bahru mrt), #01-16 (address of the whole coffeeshop)

"Bitter Almond" Hokkien Mee?!

2008-08-08T08:34:00.000-07:00

This stall's hokkien mee is not too bad. Tried it recently after researching about food in Toa Payoh (which I've just moved to). But the thing that struck me was the hint of almond in the dish!

I'm not sure if it's actually almonds being used as one of the ingredients, or it's other 'secret' ingredients with similar flavour chemicals as almond. (Eg, basmati rice and pandan leaf)

But I must say, almond and prawns present a surprisingly pleasant pairing. Worth a try!

Location: Blk 127, Toa Payoh Lorong 1. 2nd storey hawker centre above the wet market.
Store Name: 'tian tian lai' (literally come daily in mandarin)

"Sweet 16" Pineapple

2008-08-08T02:39:00.000-07:00

Recently came across a new pineapple cultivar available in the supermarket (NTUC Fairprice: $2.65 each), and I must say it really lives up to its name! Launched by S&W, these pineapple are grown in Bukidnon, Philippine.

They are relatively small compared to the more common Del Monte "Gold" pineapple. Incidentally, the latter had bought over S&W last year.

Though I must say, eating freshly cut pineapple does have a sort of biting/acidic effect on the tongue. A touch of salt (fleur de sel?) helps. But I'd highly recommend chilling the fruit in the fridge overnight, and juicing it! Luscious nectar.

"Mao San Wang" DURIAN

2008-01-24T05:30:00.000-08:00

A mandarin nickname which literally translates to 'cat mountain king', this Mayalsian durian cultivar is also known as 'musang'. This is among the highest quality 'species' and a great choice to experience first-hand why it's the King of Fruits in Southeast Asia.

Sold together with the menacing shells, this cultivar can cost anything between SGD$12 -20 Singapore dollars per kilo. An average sized durian weighs about 1.5-3 kilos.

Like many of the culinary gems around the world (eg, white truffle from Alba, Amedei Chuao dark chocolate, Danablu blue cheese, raw Californian sea urchin, etc.), durian's flavour is wonderfully complex, with a powerful aroma (abit like blue cheese) and a lusciously rich, creamy texture (like raw sea urchin or custard?). It may also be mildly fibrous, like some mangoes

Taste-wise, sweet & bitter dance in the forefront, right next to a very distinctive taste that's hard to describe. Within the green thorny exterior (defending a treasure), the golden flesh comes with a single seed per segment.

In the 'musang' cultivar featured here, the seeds are small, and the long, deep flavours vary even between flesh from different shell 'compartments' of the same fruit. Its pungency can be an acquired taste, but if your mindset is able to venture beyond cultural limitations, be prepared to fall in love!

Manni Extra Virgin Olive Oil

2008-01-23T02:19:00.000-08:00

Made from the rare Olivastra Seggianese olives organically grown & farmed in the town of Seggiano, on the slope of Monte Amiata, Tuscany.

What started as a project with the University of Florence have resulted in two wonderful artisan products - Per Mio Figlio (For My Child) and Per Me (For Me) extra virgin olive oils. Armando Manni made the latter (pictured here) hand-harvested from very small ancient groves at the highest points of Monte Amiata that the olive tree can survive.

Manni is the exquisite choice of some of the best kitchens, including The French Laundry (Thomas Keller), Jean-Georges (Jean-Georges Vongerichten), among others. Definitely on my list for sensory exploration.

100 year old Balsamic Vinegar

2008-01-23T01:38:00.000-08:00

Authentic (Cavalli is the one shown here) Tradizionale 100 year old balsamic vinegar of the Reggio Emilia region, wonderfully complex and potent. It is fermented from the must of the trebbiano grapes.

This intense elixir goes through an aging and refinement process in a variety of wood casks, spending at least 12 years in each.

The various woods - chestnut, mulberry, juniper and cherry, contribute various characteristics such as colour from the tannin, concentrating the vinegar and adding a hint vanilla aroma, adding a resinous aroma and sweetening its flavour respectively. Finally, the matured vinegar in placed in the smallest oak casks by the artisans.

When buying balsamic vinegar, look for the following whole phrases else you risk some fancy caramel-coloured plain vinegar:

- Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena (this is a town in Reggion-Emilia)
- Consortium of Producers of Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale de Reggio-Emilia

This shall be on my next flavour exploration.

Porsche Designed Champagne Chiller

2008-01-22T07:05:00.000-08:00

The Veuve Clicquot "Vertical Limit" free standing wine cellar was designed by the Porsche Design Studio. The limited edition (15 sets) brushed stainless steel stocks 12 exclusive vintages in their individual space. Each is revealed behind their very own door.

INSPIRATIONS BEHIND RECIPE DESIGNS

2007-06-05T11:59:00.000-07:00

“Flamenco”
The exquisite Belvedere Pomarancza (pom-ah-rahn-cha), designed by the flavour artist Elie-Arnaud Denoix, is the charismatic lead in this theatre of flavours. It stood out in its use of natural essential oils from the citrus peels, and especially the lovely orange blossom nose. Simply the best cast had to be selected to pair with the luxurious Belvedere Pomarancza.

Chocolate was selected as one of the key flavours due to its positive connotations across numerous cultures as a gift, and as a reward since childhood. The single-origin & single-varietal Amedei Chuao was chosen, the first time the legendary Chuao criollo cacao bean was being ‘tamed’ and used solely to create a full-bodied (70%) pure dark chocolate. (Gold) Winner of “Best Dark Chocolate” and “Best Bean to Bar” in 2005 & 2006 (World Chocolate Awards), Amedei Chuao has a complex fruitiness and subtle acidity, and powerful enough to hold its own ground.

To create a twist, the dark maroon beetroot juice was added as a most engaging element. Its earthy aroma is highly evocative, much like the air after a beautiful rain. Rich in the mineral boron (which plays a key role in the production of human sex hormones), beetroot juice has had an aphrodisiac reputation since Roman times. It had also been associated with human blood due to its potent crimson-hue, which in fact may even stain our urine. Quality organic beetroots from Australia are chosen for “Flamenco.”

To satisfy the instinctive need for sweetness, (Citadelle, since 1925) maple syrup from Quebec is included. A product of Nature during Spring, and condensed by producers into a characteristic earthy sweetness, only 100% pure maple is used.

Against these earthy lines, a touch of a lighter spirit was used – Tanqueray Gin. Also quadruple-distilled like Belvedere vodkas, it was the preferred gin brand of Frank Sinatra. The fourth distillation actually uses a pot still known as “Old Tom” which was the surviving still after World War II. Multiple-award winner (including the world’s best gin), the clarity and citrus freshness further lifts the other elements in the cocktail.

The recipe design further evolved with an unexpected accomplice – smoked paprika as part of the garnish. The Hungarian “Noble Sweet”, one of the best quality of the sweet style, contributed subtle heat to the flavour experience. Known as the édesnemes grade, it has a gentle yet pronounced pungency.

Another specialty item was chosen as part of the garnish design – the long-stemmed strawberry. A premium berry from Driscoll’s (USA), it is actually the fruit of the first blossom to open on each strawberry plant (a.k.a. the primary berry), which tends to be the largest and the first to be picked. An opulent glaze of reduced Grand Marnier was used to coat the strawberries. A liqueur blend of the finest cognac and “Citrus Bigaradia”, a rare Caribbean orange cultivar, are the key elements of this grand liqueur. Enveloped within an iconic pot still shaped bottle,

The dominant mauve colour (a dull red-purple tone) of the cocktail is reminiscent of a calm and tasteful image. Against this backdrop, the wild and gorgeous qualities of the rouge coral hue (of the paprika and strawberry) are accentuated. (Information from ‘Color Image Scale,’ authored by colour psychologist Shigenobu Kobayashi of the Nippon Colour & Design Research Institue).

Based on the emotional connotations of the colours and the ingredients, the garnish design and name are in the direction of a wild & sensuous flourish. Delivered together with the moving, untamed white twirl of the LSA (a handmade Polish brand) “Izzy” martini glass, we arrive at the Belvedere cocktail “Flamenco” (inspired by the fiery intensity of Andalusian {Spain} flamenco dancers).

“Stirring Your Soul”
Belvedere, the super-premium Polish rye vodka, offers a flavour canvas for two of the most exclusive spices in the world – saffron and vanilla.

Three Madagascan Bourbon vanilla pods macerate in a bottle of Belvedere to create a voluptuous base for this provocative painting. Vanilla is the only edible fruit of the largest family of flowering plants in the world (Orchid), while its flowers only bloom for a day. As it increases adrenaline, it is mildly addictive. It is one of the few “comfort” flavours popular across a diverse majority of cultures, and sometimes affects a nostalgic feel. Vanilla is hardly “plain”, which is an alternative adjective of the word. In fact, probably the only spice that is more exclusive than vanilla is saffron.

Perhaps the ‘Queen of spices’, saffron have been cultivated up to five millennia ago. According to legend, Cleopatra of Egypt had used it in her baths in the belief that it would increase sexual pleasures. The stigma (the female sexual organ) of the flower is painstakingly hand-harvested, whereby it takes up to 150 flowers to yield 1 gram of stigmas. And the flowers only bloom during Autumn merely for up to two weeks. It has a most unique hay-like and mildly bitter flavour, and stains a golden-yellow hue. Spanish saffron is reputed to be one of the best, and one of the leading brands (Carmencita, since 1920) has been selected to add complexity to this opulent recipe design.

To balance the bitterness of the saffron, among other undesirables, a touch of salt is used to clean the taste. Had chosen Indian Black Salt, which also offered an intriguing depth to the recipe design. Actually a pinkish volcanic rock salt, it is truly unique among salts for its distinctive sulphuric flavour. With a smell described variously as hard-boiled eggs, garlic or onions, Indian Black Salt is commonly used in Indian cuisines such as chutneys. Its use in cocktails had been suggested by Luca Turin, author of “The Secret of Scent.” Extremely potent like saffron, only the smallest pinch shall be used.

Decided to use one of the most common beverages in the world as another element – (earl grey) tea. Though very recognizable, it is rarely used for cocktails – a most attractive challenge. Named after the British PM (1830s) Charles Grey, it is basically a black tea flavoured with the essential oils of the bergamot orange. Have selected Dilmah single-origin Ceylon earl grey tea for its wonderful ‘furioso’ of flavours that seem to tango through our senses.

Pure fructose, the sweetest naturally occurring sugar, is used. Described as the most delicious sugar by Hervé This (one of the pioneers of molecular gastronomy), fructose has a fruity aroma and tastes somewhat like cane sugar. It is found in items such as fruits and honey, and I must agree that it is truly delectable.

Atop this symphony of flavours, the water chestnut presents a clarity and crunchiness as the garnish. Carved into a tear shape, it is stained magenta with a mix of organic beetroot juice and Monin caramel syrup.

A soda siphon is used to carbonate the libation, designed to enhance the experience of the cocktail’s complex flavours. A highly aromatic frizzante (lightly sparkling), perfectly paired with the elegant LSA (crafted in the same motherland as Belvedere – Poland) “Gabriella” champagne flute, shall be presented in a golden-orange hue. With this delicious colour, the flamboyant magenta of the garnish combines to evoke a dazzling energy (Information from ‘Color Image Scale,’ authored by colour psychologist Shigenobu Kobayashi of the Nippon Colour & Design Research Institue). Stirring your soul…

This was an alternative garnish for this recipe design - salmon roe (ikura) on silverskin cocktail onion.